BACKSTAGE AT YOHJI YAMAMOTO MEN FALL WINTER 2017/18 PARIS
By Crash redaction
DISCOVER THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE LATEST YOHJI YAMAMOTO MENSWEAR SHOW
“The times are changing too fast.” That’s the message Yohji Yamamoto intended to deliver yesterday. Indeed, this Fall-Winter 2017/18 menswear show was a tribute to an endangered type of man who is self-confident and relaxed. Hopefully, what the Japanese designer has to offer may help to preserve this specimen. In opposition to the immediacy of social media and our desperate yearning for speed, the Yohji Yamamoto man takes his time, parades in loose, oversized white or patterned coats, and delivers messages such as “Désolé, je suis grave” (“Sorry I’m so serious”), “the times are changing too fast,” or “Japan! This is for you.” This declaration of love to Yamamoto’s native country appears once more with “YOU have no marbles!!” – a phrase seen on a blazer and inspired by a quote from Japanese host and humorist Takaaki Ishibashi in the movie “Major League 2.”
The show also boasts a refreshing cast with models of all backgrounds, while every single one of them conveys a contagious sense of self-confidence. With black marks on his face and ruffled hair, the Yohji Yamamoto man cares more about his attitude rather than superficial appearances. His clothes embody a fierce self-confidence: all camo looks, extra-long velvet coats in pink, red, or violet, as well as jungle vibes and psychedelic styles – always in the Yamamoto spirit with many oversized silhouettes in black and white. Extra-long printed shirts, never-ending scarves, vests and blazers worn with a separate coat, mixing and matching unexpected patterns: the Yamamoto man goes with his own flow and doesn’t care about the norms.
Mature, white, Chinese, black, businessman, man of the people, or member of the elite: it doesn’t make much difference as long as he seizes the moment. Carpe diem.
© Elise Toïdé for Crash Magazine
Written by Tom Raynaud-Lacroze