ETUDES STUDIO MEN FALL WINTER 2017/18 PARIS
By Crash redaction
WITH “NEVERMIND“, ETUDES STUDIO REFLECTS ON THE CYCLES AND ABLUTIONS IN THE DAILY LIFE OF THE CITY
From the first notes of a new piece improvised by cellist Lori Goldston – who toured with Nirvana in 1993-94 – the Fall-Winter 2017 Etudes Collection, inspired by Elizabeth Peyton’s portraits, reflects on the cycles and ablutions in the daily life of the city.
At this season’s show, the models meander through the halls of the Hôtel Iéna. Inside the confines of their palace, they are “kings” reigning over a realm of laziness and procrastination. Through this lens, the collection imagines a series of domestic stories of proximity and intimate connection. Featuring long oversized scarves, knit sweaters with grunge accents, long coats, wool trousers or shawl coats, the collection evokes the morning after a long winter night. Stuffed coats enrobe the models like duvet as they walk the runway. Despite this, the collection still utilizes fine materials: raw suede, satin pajamas, windowpane check wool, and angora knitwear. In a moody palette of aubergine, tobacco, dark chestnut, and bottle green, the silhouette falls generously off the shoulder and fits widely around the leg. Long shirts, fringed scarves, and wide sleeves further emphasize that same effect.
The collection also borrows an array of artistic references that combine to form the collection’s silhouette and theme. Nods to Gus Van Sant’s first film “Mala Noche,” the work of Dike Blair depicting cigarettes and Coca-Cola, as well as a darkly mottled floral motif by Matthew Chambers all form a cocktail of lazy slackerdom with a twist of sweet melancholy.
Photos © Etudes Studio
Written by Lisa Tomasi