ICOSAE FALL WINTER 2017/18 MEN COLLECTION PARIS
By Crash redaction
“BLOOD IS THICKER THAN WATER” : WHEN FASHION MEETS FAMILIES TIES
Created in 2014 by Valentin and Florentin Glomerac, Icosae is making its first appearance on the official fashion week calendar. For these two brothers who have studied at the Ecole du Louvre, fashion is a family affair. They claim a classical inheritance influenced by their grandfather, who was a tailor in Britain. Also, their fall-winter 2017 menswear collection – which continues along the same path as their last spring-summer collection – is inspired by stories of bloodlines and families ties: a bond stronger than any other, but also full of conflict.
We still find the same underground and grunge inspirations that revisit the traditional men’s wardrobe: zippers deconstruct a black suit jacket and give a punkier appearance. The military look with Doc Martens boots, the trench, and the leather perfecto all give strength to this collection and bring it back to the place where it was presented: Les Nuits Fauves, an underground club, prized by aficionados of Parisian subculture.
Like those worn by punks of yore, patchworks printed with “The Chaos of Trouble” under tailored jackets and T-shirts reading “Anti-hero” situate this collection within a dark universe in which models claim a libertarian spirit, freed from traditional considerations and where issues of gender or social conventions seem to be banished. The iconic detail of the season, the cut and turn sleeve, is on every piece of the collection: coats, tailored jackets, and even streetwear pieces.
Despite the prevailing masculine appearance – composed exclusively of tailored jackets, trenches, and buttons down shirts – the models borrowed codes from the female wardrobe, such as an earring, a transparent black top, as well as coral aviator glasses: proof that the grungy look of the 80s is always in vogue.
Written by Lisa Tomasi