THE GENIUS OF Y/PROJECT STRIKES AGAIN AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
By Crash redaction
One can’t deny the magic in Glenn Martens’ work for Y/Project, which, season after season, seeks to reinvent womenswear and constantly go against the current flow of fashion, taking risks for the best. After winning the ANDAM prize last summer, Y/Project was more expected than ever and many were anxious to see where Glenn Martens would take his groundbreaking silhouettes.
For this season, Martens delved deeper into classic uniforms and how he could revisit them, never capitalizing on one subculture but rather taking a bit of everything and changing it up. Finding ingenious cuts and ways to fasten garments has always been the key to the collections and here, jeans are slit at the thighs which creates an interesting movement, fluffy cardigans are buttoned in the wrong holes, shirt sleeves are worn tied around the neck, polos have multiple collars…they may be simple things but you’re left wishing you would have thought of them. As always, there are strong covetable denim pieces in the form of jean shorts, cut right above the knee and a total black oversized denim look. Martens keeps exploring volume and decided to play with strands of tulle wrapped around the body, like beautiful packagings or extremely ruffled and voluminous, making the models look like bursting flower bouquets. Y/Project seems to be the only brand to mix so easily sportswear and eveningwear, rough and delicate, new and old, experimental and wearable. Grey sweatshirts were ruched at the waist, tracksuits transformed into ruffled madness and thigh-high boots looked like ribbons of fabric circling the legs. With this collection, Glenn Martens further proves his ability to exploit original ideas while keeping his garments wearable on a daily basis.
Written by Alice Butterlin