THE NEW FACE OF LANVIN
By Crash redaction
For his first fashion show on September 27th, Olivier Lapidus chose to immerse us in his world by paying tribute to Jeanne Lanvin and her creations at the Grand Palais. A first presentation as a greeting to the foundress, a door open on his own universe.
It is a return to a french simplicity where the dresses slide on the silhouettes with delicacy and sensuality. But to this, Olivier Lapidus inserts a subtle modernity where light destruction offers contemporary looks.
Without taking risks, he plays the minimalism card.
There are kimono-inspired flared sleeves, wide leg-fitting pants, or ‘LANVIN’ printed combinations. Bare backs and alternate mini skirts of the two-piece suit black that he adjusts to the waist. Pale blue, black, gold and green come to match the silk crepe, cotton or wool and reveal a subtle harmony of materials and visual.
The artistic director also revisits the Spartans by adding a light flat knot that adorns the shoe and add a lightness, accentuated by the play of transparencies that bring freshness to the cut. The line of accessories has a wide choice: the triple-turn belts wrap the body of the models, the jewelry is drawn from the 1930s and resume the motifs of the daisy or clover, the flagship symbol and favorites of Jeanne Lanvin.
Between homage and modernization of the brand, Olivier was able to fit into the world of the French house by adding a contemporary sobriety.
Written by Saskia Maitrepierre
Photos by Elise Toïdé