By Crash redaction

Channeling a modern caveman, the Acne Studios Men’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection celebrated the shifting boundaries of menswear by juxtaposing fabrics and cuts that traditionally skew feminine with those that once codified masculinity. The collection also blended craft-infused daywear with experimental evening wear for a new age of self-expression.

“When I work, it’s sort of like therapy. I’ve been thinking a lot about the masculine baggage that we drag along as guys, boys, men and I wanted to explore it for fall. The so-called rules of masculinity are changing. The contrast I built the collection on is simple: ultra-masculine versus ultra-feminine. I felt inspired by the new man, the new way of looking at things, and by men who can show vulnerability aesthetically. I was intrigued by the thought of a caveman being the most masculine thing and I used that as a contrast,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, Acne Studios.

Silhouettes were extreme – skintight met supersized for a new take on nonchalance. Second-skin cropped tees and knits contrasted with one-size-up denim jeans; slim leather biker pants were paired with flesh-exposing stretch tops; and boxy tuxedo jackets accompanied fitted pants for an evening-ready exercise in contrast.

The color palette was typically acne, blending earthy browns and smudgy greens, dusty pinks and rusty oranges, faded blues and cloudy grays – enlivened with ashes of neon alongside metallic gold and copper.

Fabrics came in contrasting combinations, indicating a radical lack of convention. Tough leather biker and baggy pinstripe pants were cut low at the waist to expose sheer lacy underlayers. Rugged oversized shearling jackets and washed-out denim outerwear vie for consideration with crinkled silk shirts and delicately-knitted leggings. A shrunken, distressed broderie anglaise jacket faced off against flared plaid trousers. Outerwear in padded velvet and fluffy wool contrasted with stretchy layering favorites that hug the form. Meanwhile several looks subverted the soccer-player stereotype, counteracting faded sportswear with satin shirts and ribbed shorts, and striped field socks with tube dresses.

Breezy checks, traditional tartans and cheery stripes offered a peppy counterpoint to washed-out tie-dye, prints that feature naturally occurring minerals and precious stones. A slogan cropped t-shirt reading ‘GRETA’, was a reference to iconic Swedish-American icon Greta Garbo..

Discover the collection below.



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