Image courtesy of Sonia Rykiel
IRREVERENT FEMINITY AT SONIA RYKIEL FALL 2018 HAUTE COUTURE
By Alice Butterlin
It has been fifty years since the launch of the Sonia Rykiel house in 1968 and to mark that symbolic anniversary, creative director Julie de Libran decided to present its first haute couture collection. She viewed this collection as a certain hommage to the house’s classics – bows, knitwear, marinière stripes, feathers – finding inspiration in the past while effortlessly bringing them back to a modern reality, taking into account the needs of women of today. The scene was set at the Paris Beaux-Arts school where models from past and present generations graced the runway in black flowy blazers and jackets worn on a bare skin. Fearless.
Shying away from any ostentatious silhouettes, this couture collection was rather playful and put forth an irreverent femininity, as seen on the powerful tuxedos and bold shoulders. Gorgeous knitwear took the form of a red skin-tight fringe dress and a cream poncho-like logo dress worn with a delicate tulle skirt. Aymeline Valade arrived in leather pants and a sheer black lace cape, revealing just enough skin to embody power, independence and nonchalance. Evening-wear has never looked so daring. As a last nod to the revolutionary spirit of Sonia Rykiel, de Libran played with the classic bride last look and decided instead on a white corset, knit veil and blue jeans.