SPRING 2018 CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC COLLECTION – BY RAF SIMONS
By Crash redaction
For its Spring 2018 runway show presented in the company’s global headquarters at 205 West 39th Street last evening, Calvin Klein tickles the notion of the American Dream and the dream-factory of Hollywood with art taking center stage. Raf Simons endlessly remixes the meanings of thriller heroines, heroes and antiheroes and give them a new interpretation creating new assemblages. “Fashion tries to hide the horror and embrace only beauty. But they are both a part of life. This collection is a celebration of that: a celebration of American life”, says Raf Simons. Mid-century American couture silhouettes are rendered industrial, reiterated in nylon, rubber specially-molded in Ohio and hand-painted leather. Lumberjack checks are used for tailored men’s suits. Pom-poms are reappropriated for fringed dresses, handbags or keyrings, and nightgowns become evening-gowns. Art itself is part of the fashion story featuring artist Sterling Ruby’s site-specific installation for the Spring runway show underscoring these themes. Last but not least, a unique collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts brings a selection of Warhol artworks used as placement screen-prints. The pieces feature portraits of Warhol intimate and art collector Sandra Brant (1971) and the movie star Dennis Hopper (1971). The curation also includes Knives (1981-2), Electric Chair (1964-65) and Ambulance Disaster (1963-64) from Warhol’s Death and Disaster Series. “Horror is juxtaposed, always, with dreams. It always becomes beautiful. Good always triumphs”, concludes the fashion house. A happy ending to complete the picture.
Written by Stéphanie Bui