10 DESIGNERS TO WATCH OUT FOR AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
By Alice Butterlin
Paris fashion week is just around the corner and comes with its batch of exciting new designers to watch. Here is a non-comprehensive list of the shows and presentations we are impatient to discover!
A newcomer on the Paris fashion scene, the Swiss Kevin Germanier made quite an impression with his first collection presented last February. Full glitter looks, sequins, pearls and intense shimmer: the aesthetic is nowhere near understated or minimalist but rather over-the-top, flirting with tacky. Think ice-skater meets pop-star. Nominated for the ANDAM prize this year, the designer is undeniably set to make his mark on fashion and we can’t wait to see where he takes the brand. Look out for his first proper show at Paris Fashion Week.
Known as the co-creator of Wanda Nylon, a womenswear brand born in 2012 which sadly closed recently, Johanna Senyk is ready for a new project that she has named Françoise. For Françoise Hardy and Françoise Sagan, two iconic French women whose style and personalities have transcended eras. While Wanda Nylon focused on outerwear (with transparent plastic trench coats as a staple), Françoise will showcase more classic and feminine pieces all made in Italy. With craftsmanship and timeless elegance at the center of the new project, we’re curious to discover the first collection at Paris Fashion Week.
NICOLAS LECOURT MANSION
Having graduated from the Atelier Chardon Savard school in Paris in 2016, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion is the next French designer to look out for. Showcasing a gender-bending aesthetic which mixed tailoring with sequins and crazy prints, Lecourt Mansion’s Fall 2018 collection drew inspiration from Matadors. Selected at Designers Apartment showroom, he’ll be presenting his Spring 2019 “Retribution” collection at the Palais de Tokyo.
© François Pragnere
While Glenn Marten’s Y/Project isn’t quite new, it still carries a certain excitement and avant-garde vision at each new collection. In a small period of time, Martens has managed to question proportions and classic beauty with his incredible sense of balance between wearable and extravagant. His recent collaboration with cult shoemaker Ugg, a selection of oversized knee-high sheepskin boots, is set to be the talk of the season. Y/Project is, without a doubt, a house that will stand the test of time by having redefined 21st century ready-to-wear.
Atlein is fairly new to the fashion world but has already made quite an impression at the latest Paris fashion weeks. With a modest aesthetic, the designer is decidedly far removed from the flashy trends of the moment. Here, no logomania or crazy prints, the clothes are only defined by their impeccable cut and the shape they create on the body. Antonin Tron knows how to flatter a woman’s body and designs with that in mind. The most talked-about piece from his Fall 2018 collection: extremely covetable deconstructed knit dresses. Watch out for his take on Spring/Summer 2019.
The power couple Victoria Feldman and Tomas Bazins have a knack for unexpected show spaces. Whether it be a garden or a dark passageway in the Palais de Tokyo, it always captures a specific mood. The designers met at Esmod fashion school in Paris, bonding over their love of leather, which was the main focus at the beginnings of Victoria/Tomas. Today, it has evolved into a house that caters to modern young women who easily mix feminine with masculine, creating a hybrid look. The cuts are also incredibly well thought-out with unexpected shapes and fastening methods.
This brand new label is sure to make heads (and heels) turn! Tokyo-based Mikio Sakabe uses 3-D printing technology to create out-of-this-world clothing and shoes that combine baroque forms with futuristic touches. With amazing liquid-looking heels that ooze out the shoe like chewing-gum, the footwear almost resembles art. We can’t wait to see what Sakabe has in store for his first fashion show at Paris fashion week!
Another alumni of the Atelier Chardon Savard school in Paris, Arthur Avellano brings latex to high fashion. Transposing the material from its background in fetishism, Arthur Avellano aims to craft wearable everyday garments in latex, as versatile as a trench coat in cotton gabardine. To reach that goal, he treats latex in the same way as he would any more traditional fabric, while constantly seeking out new ways to master the material and achieve a stunning drape and wear. It’s this focus on innovation that has turned his project into so much more than a mere gimmick: it has ushered in a veritable revolution in men’s ready-to-wear. We’ll see his latest collection at Designers Appartment.
Russian brand Delada will be presenting its Spring 2019 collection at D/ark concept showroom in Paris. Lada Komarova draws inspiration from her upbringing in Russia and the nostalgia that stems from it. She also delves into her country’s history, piecing together the past and the present to create a contemporary wardrobe. Spanish director Rei Nadal has worked closely with the brand, shaping its part dreamy/part gloomy aesthetic.
© Igor Pjorrt
Semi-finalists at the LVMH prize this year, Christa Bosch and Cosima Gadient of the brand Ottolinger never cease to impress! Channeling their Swiss roots with a futuristic rave twist, their collections carry just the right amount of psychedelia. Skin-tight latex trousers rub shoulders with feathered puffer jackets and deconstructed dirndls. It’s ski meets punk with absolutely no rules or pre-conceived ideas on womenswear.