MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI PAYS HOMAGE TO WOMEN ARTISTS IN DIOR’S LATEST COLLECTION
By Crash redaction
For her second collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri felt inspired by women artists of past and present times, in particular by Niki de Saint Phalle who had posed for Dior back when Marc Bohan was head designer of the house. As an artist, model and feminist activist in the 60s, Niki de Saint Phalle marked her time by creating anti-conformist art in an era where women’s rights had much to improve. That sort of powerful feminine aura spoke to Maria Grazia Chiuri who decided to gear her collection towards women with whimsical creativity and a taste for freedom.
Model Sasha Pivovarova opened the show, which was quite fitting as she is, herself, an artist and captures the charm and adolescent features of Niki de Saint Phalle, muse of the collection. With flared patchwork denim, a striped breton top and a denim beret, the first look says it all : The Dior spring/summer 2018 woman is a bohemian artist, roaming the streets of Paris for inspiration. Models strut down the runway with bowler hats and dangling necklaces, the signature Dior corset is revisited on a navy blue dress layered under a striped button-down shirt. After a series of arty/preppy looks, come more futuristic pieces that almost look like color-block diving suits, perhaps a toned-down version of Saint Phalle’s Nanas? Other references to the artists’ work were present on colorful prints and graphics.
As an homage to Marc Bohan’s Dior silhouettes, the girls are clad in delicate sheer polka dot blouses, flowy dresses and berets kept fresh and current with fishnet boots and graphic sweaters. The modern-day artist has a foot in the 60s/70s aesthetic with vinyl mini-dresses and black & white checkered jumpsuits, but has her mind strongly implanted in the present, ready to challenge any obstacle. You could also spot some references to punk female icons like Debbie Harry and Courtney Love with white faux-fur coats, sheer tulle skirts, striped bodysuits, sequin tops and animal print tube skirts. Overall, the collection, while questioning the position of female artists in the entertainment industry, managed to deliver strong and wearable looks for the creative women of the world.
Written by Alice Butterlin.
Photos by Elise Toidé for Crash.