ROYAL SPORTSWEAR AT KOCHE SPRING/SUMMER 2018
By Crash redaction
The show starts with a bang. A delicate, demure silhouette of a trench dress belted at the waist with, underneath, a pair of fitted sweatpants. This duality of feminine elegance versus tomboy sportswear will be the guideline of the spring/summer Koché show. With a partnership with the Paris-Saint-Germain soccer club, it was all about deconstructing the classic football jersey which is torn apart, bedazzled with sequins, made into a dress and paired with delicate lace and flower appliqués.
With this collection, Christelle Kocher, who is also artistic director of Maison Lemarié, puts a spin on the notion of sportswear which can be as glamorous as a fancy cocktail dress. The girls (and boys) strutting down the runway are true soccer royalty, never afraid to get dirty but always with a touch of sparkle. With Koché, it’s all about the details and a good amount of pattern mixing. The brand’s logo is either embroidered on tiny fabric belts or burst into a constructivist pattern on oversized t-shirts. Besides the soccer-themed garments, some flamenco-inspired dresses as well as a magnificent black bolero graced the runway, further confirming Kocher’s will to dress powerful charismatic women. The show was held at the Church Saint Merry, a beautiful gothic monument which also stages the Sonic Protest Festival and is a place known for hosting numerous experimental concerts and performances.
Written by Alice Butterlin
Photos by Elise Toidé for Crash.