FASHION

GAUNTLETT CHENG SS23

By Roisin Breen

Gauntlett Cheng is a New York label by Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng founded in 2014. The clothes subliminally explore the emotional state of both of the designers, appearing familiar but uneasy. The womenswear collections focus on collaborations with artists and explore themes of work life, financial anxiety, sexuality, a sense of home, desire, frustration and nostalgia. All pieces are handmade in New York.

On Tuesday, September 13th Gauntlett Cheng showcased their Spring/Summer 2023 Ready-To-Wear collection, When It Feels Right How Could It Be Wrong, at Manhattan Heliport Downtown. The collection presents new contexts for anxious moments in our lives, clothes that are aware of some inevitable tension but find fun in the undertow. Set against the back-drop of New York City at the East River Helipad, the location begs the question of what it means to be in transition – as the city isn’t just a place, it’s a character that encompasses each of our lives.

A play on compromise emerges in skirts that are shiny, sheer and pink but are paneled, yielding provocation in a form of suggestion. There were references to the now-cherished coats of their mothers that hide clingy party dresses, stockings fitted with long strands of hair dangling, peeking out from the hem of a wedding dress. Sometimes evolution is just a matter of defiance when wearing a diverse array of second hand luxury shoes from The RealReal, having models strut the heliport runway in exactly that sentiment.

After taking a two year hiatus, Gauntlett Cheng finds that the garments they’ve made still feel comfortable to not only themselves but to friends and family alike, regardless of where they are in their lives. As time waits for no one, luxury is being able to reach into your closet for the same pieces as you did then, as you do now. You’re standing on the edge, intuitively holding your own hand.

Discover all the looks below.