JEAN PAUL GAULTIER x GLENN MARTENS HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/SUMMER 2022 - CRASH Magazine
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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER x GLENN MARTENS HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/SUMMER 2022

By Crash redaction

Glenn Martens of Y/Project reinterprets Jean Paul Gaultier Couture in a collection that Martens states « celebrates the heritage and savior-faire » of the house. Having collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier in 2008 Martens returns to revive and rehash Gaultier stereotypes in the Y/Project aesthetic while remaining true to Gaultier heritage.  The brand’s iconic looks are transformed through new techniques into surreal silhouettes. The marinière appears in consecutive layers of tulle or multiple strands of velvet lacing. Tailored pinstripe suits exalt and morph the figure, laying it bare and accentuating its curves. Cut-out hip sections deepen the waistline, where the Y/Project signature “V” plunges into a casual-style bodysuit.  Historical references are present throughout the dramatic looks, Belle Époque fabrics, Victorian crimson shades, chainmail inspired prints, and Medieval-style long velvet petticoats. Adorning Martens’ creations are a beaded choker top, embroidered silver or garnet corals, patchwork crystals and antique woven brooches.

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